Don’t be seduced by the new hipster pop-ups: ‘bares notables’ that survive – just – in the barrios serve up history, tango and real Buenos Aires life

Last month, as part of Buenos Aires’ annual Día del Café Notable, a two-day festival called Feca – backslang for “cafe” – saw tastings, barista training sessions and themed tours take over the capital’s bares notables. These corner bar-cafes are the quintessential Buenos Aires institution – anything from 50 to 160 years old, they have architectural value, and have been the sites of key cultural moments.

This year Feca paid tribute to Tortoni, which is celebrating its 160th birthday. Tortoni is a beauty, for sure, but it’s also mobbed by tourists, and I wanted to unearth some of the less famous cafes.

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