On the third leg of his tour, our writer explores the ancient walking trails of this mysterious Cyclades island, with its monasteries, sea cliffs and deserted hill villages
Previous stops: Ikaria, Kalymnos. Next: Folegandros

I’m getting the hang of Greek ferries. Turn up at the port early, check where the boat will dock, retire to a kafeneio, then be in the right place at the appointed time. The boat will slap down its ramp, disgorge passengers, ingest the next lot, and be gone. The entire process can take minutes. In this way I hop from Kalymnos to Kos, then take the three-hour voyage to Amorgos, at the same time shifting from the Dodecanese to the Cyclades.

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