As the Land of the Pharaohs edges its way back on to the tourist map, our writer and her daughter join other single-parent families on a new group tour

Water buffalo call softly as the waters of the Nile lap at the boat. Kingfishers swoop in the dim light, silhouetted against a mosque on Aswan’s distant bank. Mia, 13, is in a huddle of kids on the upper deck of the wooden felucca, our home for the night. Thanks to some expert child-whispering by our Egyptian guide, Walid – and some instructions from YouTube – they are fashioning a kite from bits of wood, string and tarpaulin, while the adults chat over cool beers.

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