There’s been a hostel in this spot for more than 80 years but the new YHA flagship is one of a kind, with a museum and cafe and blending into the Unesco-listed landscape

At midday, we were lounging on a grassy roof terrace in blazing sunshine, gazing out over a 2,000-year-old world heritage site. By midnight, we were lazing in a stargazing hammock, watching a meteor shower flash across one of the world’s darkest skies. It could have been a boutique hotel in Chile’s Atacama desert, but it was a £15-a-night youth hostel in Northumberland.

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